My Journey Through Bosnia & Herzegovina

My first visit to Bosnia & Herzegovina began with a bus journey from Split to Mostar, and I couldn’t have been more excited. Once I’d realised just how close Bosnia was to Croatia, I knew I had to experience it for myself.

These were places I’d grown up hearing about because of the conflicts of the 1990s, so finally visiting felt like a real privilege. It was an opportunity to see a country that had rebuilt itself while preserving its history, culture and incredible hospitality.

I arrived in Mostar late in the evening and, early the following morning, made my way to the city’s most famous landmark – the magnificent Stari Most (Old Bridge). Although the bridge was rebuilt after being destroyed during the Bosnian War, standing there you can still feel the history that surrounds it.

After wandering through the beautiful Ottoman streets lined with traditional shops and market stalls, I found a café overlooking the bridge. Sitting there with an iced coffee as the morning sun climbed higher and the city slowly came to life remains one of my favourite travel memories. I had arrived before the heat of the day, and by lunchtime the Bosnian summer was in full force.

I stayed in a small family-run guesthouse near the bus station where the owner welcomed guests into her home. Like me, many of the other travellers had dreamed of visiting Bosnia & Herzegovina, and there was a wonderful atmosphere of shared excitement and discovery.

From Mostar I travelled to Sarajevo, one of Europe’s most fascinating capitals. I stayed close to the historic Baščaršija, the city’s old Ottoman bazaar, where narrow cobbled streets are filled with cafés, bakeries, artisan workshops and the irresistible aroma of freshly grilled ćevapi and Bosnian coffee.

Sarajevo is a city where East truly meets West. Ottoman mosques, Austro-Hungarian buildings, churches and synagogues stand within minutes of one another, reflecting centuries of history and cultural diversity. Walking through the city is like travelling through different chapters of European history.

One of the highlights was visiting the Latin Bridge, forever associated with the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in 1914, the event that sparked the First World War. Standing there brought history to life in a way no book ever could.

Not every journey goes perfectly! Sarajevo has two main bus stations on opposite sides of the city, something I only discovered when I arrived at the wrong one before my onward journey. Thankfully the station had Wi-Fi, allowing me to quickly find an alternative. I ended up booking a minibus to Belgrade for the following day instead. Although it meant an unexpected extra night in Sarajevo and a shorter stay in Serbia, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise. I had more time to enjoy Sarajevo’s cafés and atmosphere, and the scenic minibus journey to Belgrade included several memorable stops along the way.

Bosnia & Herzegovina may be a relatively small country, but it’s packed with incredible experiences. Beyond Mostar and Sarajevo, visitors can discover the spectacular Kravica Waterfalls, the peaceful Blagaj Tekke beneath dramatic cliffs, the medieval town of Počitelj, the pristine mountain scenery of Sutjeska National Park, and Jajce, famous for its unique waterfall in the centre of the town. Nature lovers can explore rivers, mountains and hiking trails, while history enthusiasts will find centuries of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and Yugoslav heritage woven into everyday life.

For me, Bosnia & Herzegovina was one of the biggest surprises of my Balkans adventure. Friendly people, fascinating history, beautiful scenery and unforgettable food combined to create a destination that exceeded every expectation. It’s a country I would happily return to and one I would wholeheartedly recommend to anyone exploring the Balkans.